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Bear Rilakkuma Style ☆FREE Pattern☆

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Crochet Rilakkuma Bear リラックマ ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ

Rilakkuma‘s is the relaxed bear. He certainly looks chilled out (maybe even lazy) and super adorable! Rilakkuma’s name is a combination of リラックス rirakkusu, a Japanese transliteration of the English word “relax”, and the Japanese word for “bear”. Put them together and you get an irresistibly cute bear.

Now you can make your own, give it to someone special, and save a little money making one yourself.

Free Pattern Options

★ Scroll down for the free written pattern.
★ Download the FREE PDF with written and photo instructions.
★ Download from my Ravelry store: Suzy Dias Designs (click here).

(◍•ᴗ•◍)❤(✿◠‿◠) This pattern in 100% free! If you’d like to help me provide even more free patterns, I’d really appreciate it. Click here for a 1 time donation: 



 

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SKU: ami-we-three-bears-free-pattern-1 Categories: , , , Tags: , , , ,

For instructions with photos, “Add to Cart” to download the free PDF.

Details
• Final height: 11 cm
• Hook size: 2.5 mm (or 3 mm for a bigger size)
• 8 mm plastic safety eyes (black)
• Yarn Group: 8 ply / DK / worsted (I used 100% cotton)
• Yarn colors: brown, white and yellow

Abbreviations: R – Round, MR – magic ring, ST/STS – stitch/stitches, SLST – slip stitch, SC – single crochet,
INC – 2 single crochets (SC) in the same stitch, INVDEC – invisible decrease, BLO – back loop only, F/O – fasten off the yarn and secure it so the stitch will not unravel

NOTE: Scroll down for very helpful crochet tutorials on various techniques.

HEAD (brown)
– Start from the top and we’ll be working in the round.
1. MR, SC 6 (6)
2. INC around (12)
3. INC,  SC 1 around (18)
4. INC, SC 2 around (24)
5. INC, SC 3 around (30)
6. INC, SC 4 around (36)
7. INC, SC 5 around (42)
8-16. SC around (42)
17. INVDEC, SC 5 around (36)
18. INVDEC, SC 4 around (30)
19. INVDEC, SC 3 around (24)
* Add eyes btw R13-14 (count from back was head). 8 visible sts between the eyes.
20. INVDEC, SC 2 around (18)
21. INVDEC, SC 1 around (12)
22. INVDEC around (6)
– F/O and hide the tail.
* Squish the top and bottom of the head down a bit to get that distinctive “Rilakkuma” head shape.

MUZZLE (white)
– Leave a tail at start to help when you sew in place.
1. MR, SC 10 around (10)
2. SC 2, HDC 3, SC 2, HDC 3 (16) – this creates a slightly oval shape.
– SLST to the next stitch to close the circle.
– F/O and leave a tail to sew to the head.
– Pull the tail tight tight to close hole.
– See “Nose & Mouth” section to continue.

> NOSE & MOUTH (black)
– Add the nose and mouth BEFORE you sew the muzzle in place.
– Use black yarn or embroidery thread to embroider on the nose and mouth.
– Sew the completed muzzle to the same round as the top of the eyes (R12). Stitch in place using the BLO (back loops only). You can sew through both loops, but in my photos, you’ll see I only used the back loops.

EARS (brown, make 2)
– Using brown yarn, leave a tail at start to help when you sew in place.
1. MR, SC 6 (6)
2. INC around (12)
3. INC,  SC 1 around (18)
– F/O and leave a tail to sew to the head.

–> INSIDE EARS (yellow, make 2)
– Using yellow yarn, leave a tail at start to help when you sew in place.
1. MR, SC 6 (6)
2. INC around (12)
– SLST to the next stitch to close the circle.
– F/O and hide the end on the backside of this circle.

–> EARS: ASSEMBLE & ATTACH
– Sew one yellow “inside ear” to one of the brown “ears” using yellow thread. You can use yellow yarn, but I found thread was easier. NOTE: Make sure that your stitches do not appear on the backside of the brown ear.
– Using brown yarn, attach the completed ears between rounds 5 and 9 from the top of the head.

ARMS (brown, make 2)
– MR, SC 4 (4)
– Do not close the circle.
– Pull the tail tight. F/O and leave a tail to sew the ears
to the body.
– Add the arms between R 11-12, 4 visible sts between.

LEG 1 (bear’s right leg)
– Using brown yarn
1. MR, SC 6 (6)
2. SC around (6)
– F/O and hide the tail.

LEG 2 (bear’s left leg)
1. MR, SC 6 (6)
2-3. SC around (6)
**Do not F/O. Continue with body…

BODY (brown)
– The body begins with the legs, we will attach them with a CH 1 and then continue in the round.
4. While still holding LEG 2, CH1 and then SC 1 to attach LEG 2 to LEG 1. Continue to SC around (12)
– Time to add a few increases to create a belly
5. INC, SC around (21)
6. INC, SC 4 around, but you’ll end on an INC (26)
7-13. SC around (26)
14. INVDEC, SC 1 around + one extra SC (17)
– F/O and hide the tail.

TUMMY (white)
1. MR, SC 10 (10)
2. HDC 2, DC 3 in the next 3 sts, HDC 2, DC 3 in the next 3 sts (16)
– F/O and leave a tail to sew to the body.
– I used the back side as the front (inverse), but either side look good. It’s up to you 🙂
– Center in the middle of the tummy with the front of the body before sewing on.

TAIL
– I embroidered the tail since it was so small. I used the brown yarn and added stitches over and over until a little bump appeared.
– F/O and hide the yarn tail.

Et voilà! You’re all done.


Helpful Crochet Tutorials

• Magic Ring for Crochet | June Gilbank
• How to Crochet a Sphere (beginner) | Louie’s Loops
Invisible Decrease for Amigurumi | June Gilbank
How to Crochet Amigurumi: Crocheting in Back Loops Only (BLO) | Ink & Stitches
Ultimate Finish for Amigurumi | June Gilbank
• Crochet Technique: Fastening Off, Closing & Weaving in Ends of Crochet Amigurumi Toys | NattypatCrochet

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